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Downton Abbey is one of the most popular shows on television, and its authentic costumes and jewelry are part of its charm.
When Caroline McCall, costume designer for the show, wanted jewelry for seasons three and four, she turned to Andrew Prince, a designer with an encyclopedic knowledge of jewelry history and impeccable credentials. Prince created tiaras and jewelry for the 2005 British comedy, Mrs. Henderson Presents (starring Dame Judi Dench); jewelry for the 2009 film, The Young Victoria (starring Emily Blunt and Miranda Richardson); and is a successful designer of his own collection of period pieces .Working for a show like Downton Abbey is a considerable achievement, and Prince shared his thoughts with GIA about the experience: “It was an absolute thrill to work with Caroline McCall and to be associated with such a hugely successful series. It’s wonderful to see my jewelry being worn by this amazing cast, and adding a little more sparkle to the sumptuous costumes and surroundings of Downton Abbey.” Prince brought an art historian’s eye to his jewelry. Even the stones were fashioned to mirror the cutting styles of the Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Unlike most costume jewelry used on movie and television sets, Prince’s was made of bronze, brass, sterling silver, palladium, Swarovski crystals, cubic zirconia, and synthetic gemstones. McCall selected items from Prince's collection, and asked him to create appropriate pieces of jewelry for Lady Violet Crawley (played by Dame Maggie Smith), Lady Cora Crawley (Elizabeth McGovern), Lady Mary Crawley (Michelle Dockery), and several of the other actresses. The jewelry Lady Violet Crawley wears in the photo on the left says much about her personality. Prince shared his thoughts on the cast photo. He explained that Lady Violet wore the most splendid, formal gems with an air of complete nonchalance, while the beautiful younger ladies had fun with more modern styles. By season four, Lady Edith Crawley (Laura Carmichael) has become much more fashion conscious and daring, while her wild young cousin, Lady Rose MacClare, (Lily James) has embraced all the latest styles of the Jazz Age. Another character whose jewelry is telling is Lady Cora, who married into British aristocracy. Prince noted that, as an American heiress, Lady Cora would have had the money and access to the greatest designers of the age. These individuals could be very demanding, insisting on the latest designs and the highest quality. He added that there was no British reserve to hold them back. The show has since moved through time, from the Belle Époque period (1871 – 1914) to the Art Deco era (1920s – 1930s). Lady Rose is a spirited and rebellious young woman who epitomizes the fashionable flapper of the 1920s. Her personality is revealed by a glittering bandeau. Prince shared some final thoughts on the artistic periods that are so much a part of Downton Abbey: “I particularly love the Belle Époque – such refinement and delicacy. Design mattered more than the monetary value of the stones and precious metals used. The beauty of jewelry from that age lay in its construction. It was all so different and opulent.” Now that you know something about the creation and selection of jewelry for the characters of Downton Abbey, you might enjoy another aspect of the show. And you may find that you have a deeper understanding and appreciation of period jewelry – knowledge that’s essential for industry professionals. (From GIA website) Pink diamonds owe their color to certain physical abnormalities and chemical
impurities within their structure. Most of these stones come from a single place in Australia – the Argyle mine. Natural pink diamonds are among the rarest and most expensive fancy-colored stones. When buying a pink diamond, you should first decide on its size and color intensity as these are the most important factors that will determine how much you will have to pay. Evaluating the Color of Pink Diamonds The color of a pink diamond has three main components on which it is evaluated: hue, saturation, and tone. Hue is the visible color of a fancy-color diamond. The primary hue of a pink diamond is, of course, pink. However, there can be secondary hues of a different color. In general, secondary hues that enhance the primary color are deemed to add to the value of the stone, whereas ones that detract from its primary hue can diminish its worth. Common undertones in pink diamonds are purple, brown, and orange; purple and orange are more valuable, while brown and yellow are less desirable. Pink diamonds with no secondary coloring are rare and usually more expensive than ones with additional hues. Saturation refers to the intensity of the stone’s color. As a rule, the more intense the color of a diamond, the more valuable it is. Therefore, diamonds that have a deep pink color will be worth more than ones whose hue is faint. The most expensive pink diamonds are those whose color is closest to red (by the way, natural red diamonds are the rarest colored diamonds). Tone is a characteristic that tells you how light or dark the color of a fancy-color diamond is. What tone you will choose comes down to your personal preference, but usually, stones that are too light or too dark to have a discernible primary color are not as sought after as those that are medium dark and have a well-defined hue. Pink diamonds are graded using the following categories: Faint Pink, Very Light Pink, Light Pink, Fancy Light Pink, Fancy Pink, Fancy Intense Pink, Fancy Vivid Pink, Fancy Dark Pink, and Fancy Deep Pink. If there is a secondary color, it is also included in the grade; for example, Fancy Purplish Pink describes a pink stone with a purple undertone. Pink Diamonds and Carat Weight In general, bigger fancy-color diamonds are rarer and therefore cost disproportionately more per carat. This trend is even more pronounced with pink diamonds, which are among the rarest colored diamonds. So, if you are planning to buy a pink diamond bigger than 0.3-0.4 carats, be ready to pay substantially more than the price of a smaller but otherwise comparable stone. Plan your budget accordingly, and keep in mind that pink diamonds bigger than 0.5 carats are very rare and expensive. Evaluating the Clarity of Pink Diamonds Although the clarity of pink diamonds is graded the same way as that of colorless stones, this characteristic is not as important for fancy-color diamonds as their flaws tend to be less visible due to the stone’s coloring. All else being equal, pink diamonds with fewer flaws are more expensive. However, you don’t need to pay top dollar for a stone that is perfectly clean – a cheaper diamond of a lower clarity grade can look just as flawless to the naked eye. You can find reasonably clean stones in the SI1-SI2 clarity range that don’t have inclusions visible to the unaided eye; fancy-color diamonds in the VS and VVS clarity categories tend to be more expensive but may not offer a visible difference. Pink Diamonds and Cut When it comes to pink diamonds (and all fancy-color diamonds for that matter), cut is not evaluated the same way as is that of colorless stones. The reason for this is that colored diamonds are not necessarily cut with proportions that maximize brilliance and sparkle as these characteristics are deemed secondary for fancy-color stones. Instead, colored diamonds are cut to maximize color intensity. So, don’t judge the cut of pink diamonds using traditional grades. You should look at the stone’s color first and consider brilliance only after you are satisfied with the diamond’s color saturation. Treated and Synthetic Pink Diamonds Since natural pink diamonds are very rare and expensive, vendors offer artificially colored stones that are more affordable. Some pink diamonds are simply natural colorless diamonds that have been subjected to heat, pressure, and irradiation to alter their color. There are also synthetic pink diamonds, which are created in a lab but have the same chemical structure as natural stones. When buying a pink diamond, always make sure that the stone is accompanied by a certificate that documents whether it is natural or synthetic as well as whether the diamond has been treated to change its color. National Jeweler has predicted five stories that will remain
relevant to the jewelry industry in the coming year. This list was compiled with the help of Cindy Edelstein of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, Beth Ann Bonanno of The EAB Project and Marc Knobloch, vice president of diamond company Aron Knobloch Inc. Read on for major topics of 2014. 1. Lab-grown diamonds. It was the hot topic in 2012 that carried over into 2013, and it will continue to be an issue in 2014 and beyond. Will the younger generation of consumers--those now in their teens and 20s--accept lab-grown diamonds for their engagement rings? What about the undisclosed mixing of lab-grown diamonds with mined diamonds? The industry certainly understands that it’s an issue. Major players, including De Beers and the Gemological Institute of America, all had something to say about undisclosed mixing in 2013, and 2014 is starting off with a similar focus. On Wednesday, the Diamond Manufacturers and Importers Association of America, Jewelers of America, the Indian Diamond and Colorstone Association and the New York Diamond Dealers Club are hosting an invitation-only seminar on undisclosed mixing in New York. 2. Inconsistent grading reports. Over the course of the year, a number of jewelers expressed ongoing frustration with over-graded diamonds: stones coming back from certain laboratories that are a number of grades off in terms of color and clarity. For example, a G color, SI1 stone would get a grading report calling it an E color, VS1. “It’s been a problem since diamonds went up in price,” one retailer said. “It’s frustrating being a businessperson and seeing this storm coming. I just know this is going to be a storm.” The storm didn’t rain down in a big way in 2013 but there was a little rumble of thunder near the end of the year: ABC 7 in Denver aired a “buyer beware” story about the “unregulated” world of grading labs in November, right before Black Friday. Another ABC affiliate, 10 News in San Diego, picked up the story and aired its own, but very similar, version in mid-December. More stories about over-graded diamonds are likely to surface in 2014. 3. Social and mobile sales. For everybody that thinks, hopes or wishes social media would just go away, 2014 is going to be the bearer of disappointing news: it’s not. Technology, specifically smartphones, tablet computers and wireless Internet service, have transformed the way people communicate and share information. Social marketing--and social selling--will continue to be important for jewelers. They’ll need to devote more time and creativity to social media in the coming year. Edelstein points to Instagram and Pinterest as two social media platforms on which retailers need to become more proficient. “I have heard tales of sales being caused by Instagram and Pinterest and I think it’s just the tip of the iceberg,” she says. “Retail jewelers will have to figure out how to incorporate Instagram into their marketing plans despite the (tiny) hurdle of it being a phone app, which seems to be an obstacle for some.” In addition, m-commerce, or mobile sales (sales made via a smartphone or tablet computer) will continue to grow in importance. Even if they do not sell online, retailers need to make their products clearly visible on mobile devices. 4. The smartwatch. So far smartwatches, which began to emerge in earnest in 2013, have not made a huge splash. But there’s one technology player who’s biding their time on the bench before they jump into the game: Apple, maker of such market-altering gadgets as the iPod and iPad. As columnist Jan Brassem observed in his Dec. 2 article, Apple has never been the first to enter a new market. The company allows others to go before them and then learn from their success and failures before launching what, ultimately, ends up being the most popular product in the space. Indications are that Apple may be getting off the bench and into the smartwatch game in 2014. On Christmas Eve, the New York Post ran a story quoting the tech giant’s CEO, Tim Cook, as saying he has “big plans” for the coming year that consumers are going to love. 5. Gold. The price of gold is abiding by the law of gravity: it went up and now it’s coming down. After soaring to nearly $1,900 an ounce in recent years, the price of gold has dropped, and analysts say they expect it to continue to fall in 2014. According to Kitco.com, the per-ounce price of gold was $1,225 as of Jan. 2. One report quoting a prediction from Goldman Sachs has gold coming down as far as $1,057 an ounce in the coming year, a level not reached since 2010. Lower gold prices could be good for retailers and designers who want to make new purchases. These pieces can be priced at levels that are accessible to more consumers, who are showing an affinity for rose gold as well as yellow gold, which is coming back into style. Yet a per-ounce price of $1,200 or even $1,050 is still significantly higher than $600 or $800 an ounce, meaning the metal may remain out of reach for a middle class continuing its post-recession struggle. And what about designers, retailers or manufacturers who are stuck with gold purchased when the price was much higher? As Bonanno points out, “Many of my clients are artists whose work is gold intensive and they have quite an inventory. With gold under $1,200 they will have to significantly lower their prices and much of that gold was purchased at seriously higher price point An Art Deco emerald and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, which was
formerly from the collection of Princess Faiza of Egypt, daughter of King Fouad I of Egypt (1868-1936) is for sale with a pre-auction estimate of $2,700,000-3,700,000 “Princess Faiza’s emerald and diamond necklace is a very rare souvenir of pre-revolutionary Egypt in the late 1940s. The discovery of this truly amazing piece of jewellery, which could have been lost forever, brings back to mind the memory of a most elegant, gracious and beautiful woman: HRH Princess Faiza of Egypt,” a Christies spokesperson said. Other lots have more contemporary stories. A 58.29 carat sapphire mounted in a multi-gem Côte D’Azur brooch designed by Anna Hu could sell for over $3,500,000. Anna Hu is a red carpet favourite for stars such Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Natalie Portman. Christies is promising that some of the world’s rarest gems and
period pieces of jewellery will go under the hammer at its November 12 Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva. Centrepiece of the sale will be The Orange, the largest fancy vivid orange diamond ever to appear for sale at auction. The 14.82 carat stone, comfortably the largest fancy vivid orange diamond in the world, will be the centrepiece of an auction featuring over 280 lots. Its pre-auction sale price is estimated at up to $20 million There were precious few sit-up-and-take-notice fashion moments at the 2013 Oscars, but upon closer inspection,
Hollywood's leading ladies did indulge in some jaw-dropping gems, most notably Jennifer Garner, who accessorized her magenta Gucci with some massive ice: Neil Lane darkened platinum and diamond necklace, earrings and bracelet (200 carats, $2.5 million total). "The Impossible" nominee Naomi Watts wore 20-carat platinum and diamond drop earrings and a platinum and diamond bracelet ($1.5 million total) with her gunmetal sequined Armani. Charlize Theron's vintage Harry Winston platinum and diamond bracelets totaled more than 100 carats added the right amount of luxe to her divine Christian Dior. Although "Les Miserables" winner Anne Hathaway's Prada dress didn't show off her Tiffany & Co. diamond and platinum "Corsage" neckace to its best advantage, the $485,000 piece was still beautiful. There were quite a few gorgeous gold pieces on the red carpet: "Zero Dark Thirty" star Jessica Chastain wore a vintage Harry Winston diamond and gold bracelet that coordinated with her bronze Armani gown, while Samantha Barks of "Les Miserables" used her low-cut Valentino to show off a House of Waris for Forevermark pendant in yellow gold with an oval Forevermark diamond. Best bracelet? "Skyfall"'s Naomie Harris' "Sunrise" bracelet in 18 karat gold with citrines and diamonds. By Vicki Hyman. THE ARCHDUKE JOSEPH DIAMOND
Lot Description THE ARCHDUKE JOSEPH DIAMOND The unmounted cushion-shaped diamond weighing approximately 76.02 carats, in purple leather fitted box Accompanied by report no. 5151001770 dated 14 September 2012 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is D colour, Internally Flawless clarity; a letter indicating that the diamond is Type IIa; a GIA monograph and a letter dated 1 October 2012 stating that 'to date the Archduke Joseph Diamond is the largest D-color, Internally Flawless diamond we have graded from the historic Golconda region'. If you need further proof that emeralds are, were, and always
will be in fashion, look no further than Sotheby’s recent $18.8 million auction of property from the late Brooke Astor’s estate: A Bulgari necklace, estimated at $250,000–$350,000, went for $686,500, and her 22.84 ct. Van Cleef & Arpels emerald engagement ring earned $1.2 million. (It was valued at $100,000–$150,000.) In fact, all of Astor’s emeralds—she had about a dozen pieces in the lot of 64 jewels, which pulled in $5.7 million total—exceeded their estimates, most selling for three and four times the predicted prices. That’s a whole lot of green. Victoria’s not-so-secret 2012 FantasyPosted
by Michelle Graff on October 31, 2012 Every year, lingerie lord Victoria’s Secret unveils a multi-million dollar bra set with an astounding number of diamonds and colored gemstones that one lucky model gets to wear down the runway at the brand’s annual fashion show. This year’s bejeweled brassiere is a $2.5 million floral-themed bra-and-belt set featuring 5,200 hand-set precious gems: amethysts, sapphires, tsavorites and rubies along with white, pink and yellow diamonds, set in 18-karat rose and yellow gold. Designed by New York-area retailer London Jewelers, the bra, Victoria’s Secret “Very Sexy Push-up” model, has two removable diamond flower pins, and the drop centerpiece features two large white diamonds, one 12.5 carats and the other 20 carats. Model Alessandra Ambrosio has been tapped to model the bra this year, following in the stiletto-clad footsteps of past Fantasy bra models such as Gisele Bündchen, Heidi Klum and Claudia Schiffer. She’ll also wear it on the runway during the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, which is set to air Dec. 4 on CBS. This year, Victoria’s Secret also added a bejeweled perfume bottle, putting white, pink and yellow diamonds, along with sapphires, tsavorites, rubies and a 10-carat colorless diamond, on a bottle of its “Bombshell” fragrance. The price tag on this perfume: $500,000. |
AuthorMary has a love for diamonds and is a GIA Graduate Archives
April 2018
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JEWELRY IS A BEAUTIFUL EXPRESSION OF WHAT MEMORIES ARE MADE OF